A few times a year Michael gathers with friends to share in the tamal making traditions.
Unas cuantas veces al año Michael se reúne con unos amigos para compartir las tradiciones de hacer el tamal.
Vivienne Lyons, Kaysha Johnson, Tonya & Desmond White, Michael, & his mother (su madre) Ana María Delgado.
Photos by Ellen Levy

Michael O’Connor, the owner of Cocinana catering, got into the cooking business to honor a family tradition and make it his profession. The Bethesda resident is participating for the second year in TamalFest DC on Dec. 4, 2016. We interviewed him to learn the history behind Cocinana.

When did you get the idea of starting a tamales business?

With the death of my nana a few years ago. She was living at home for the last years of her life, so I dedicated time to spend next to her at home, along with the rest of the family. Since we were close to Christmas, one of the main holidays when we prepare tamales, I started giving it a thought.

I even had my friends asking me to meet up to make tamales. I then realized that this hobby could be turned into a profession. I realized I could be completely dedicated to it. No pupusas or empanadas, but exclusively tamales. I really like cooking in different ways and with the typical ingredients from my country, so I said why not? I also really like exploring and letting my friends and family try and learn new things.

How did you learn to make tamales?

As the oldest in my family, I was always around the kitchen observing my “abuelas” (grandmas) and “tias” (aunts) cooking. They would be in the kitchen talking about their day, their family, or life in general. To entertain ‘the little one’ (me), they would assign me different tasks. Cut this, peel this. Here, do some of this. It was my childhood. After that many years, I eventually learned the process.

When do you make tamales?

In my family we cook them for Christmas and Easter. I, however, also meet with friends every once in a while to teach them how to make tamales.

How does your tamal cater to local appetites?

Most of my friends are vegetarians or vegans so I adapted my tamales to that. I still have pork and chicken ones, though. I learned how important it is for them to not have any milk and to include organic vegetables. I use Enoki mushrooms that look like meat in some tamales, and it fools more than one because they think it is meat.

For more information, visit: http://www.cocinana.com.

Interview by Paula Martínez